Saturday, February 19, 2011

Village Tour to Ban Tham Seua

Up early (as usual). Breakst - coffee and a cigarette on the palapa. This morning we're visiting Rai Pree Da, a local resort. We arrive and are offered drinks, but it's that incredibly sweet instant stuff that only contains trace amounts of coffee. Yum.

We choose our bikes and we're off through jungle and rubber plantations. Nong cheerfully tells me that the last time he was here he came face to face with a king cobra as thick as his arm. My knuckles whiten slightly, but hey, what spices up a bike ride in the country more than the prospect of possible agonizing death?

First stop is a Buddhist shrine set into a spectacular limestone cave. Our guide points out a rock formation which resembles a teeny little tiger and the masses of seashells on the cave-floor left there by humans 3000 years ago. He suggests we go deeper into the cave network. We follow gingerly, slipping and sliding on the guano covered rocks. Torches shine on the stalactite encrusted ceiling and we're greeted by a swirling mass of disturbed bats. Thoughts of thousands of sharp little teeth and rabies are overtaken by admiration and wonder at the furry little critter's incredible aerial gymnastics within the cave's narrow confines.

We emerge blinking into the hot, hot sunshine and hop back onto the bikes. Next stop - a shallow pool deep in the jungle that contains patches of bubbling quicksand. A sign nearby informs us that since ancient times it was thought of a kind of gateway for the dead. Spooky. Our guide asks us to be quiet and then motions for us all to start clapping. Bubbles rise rhythmically to the surface in time with our round of applause. I'm encouraged to put my hand into the quicksand. It's a strange sensation, simultaneously wet and dry, and as the sand easily gives way, I'm up to my elbow before I know it.

Back to the rubber plantation and I'm offered the chance to milk a tree. The owner of the plantation hands me the curved, razor sharp knife after a quick demo and I start hacking inexpertly into the bark. "No no, too deep" he says, wincing slightly as I mangle his precious source of income. I manage to get the hang of it and I'm ridiculously gratified to see a trickle of pure white sap run down the groove I've just made and into the collecting cup.

Off for a rest by the river. Gazing out at the lush mangrove forest the peace is shattered by Charlie, bellowing "Ladies and gentlemen, I have an important announcement to make. CANNONBALL!" and hurling himself into the mysterious depths.
Back to the resort and we have Pad Thai for lunch. Unfortunately I somehow cover my t-shirt in hot chili powder which mixes with my sweat to create a sort of natural Deep Heat and leaves me with an unpleasant burning sensation all over my stomach and chest.


I have a go on the rope crossing after a challenge from Charlie. I manage to make it across despite Charlie and Nong whipping the ropes up and down like a pair of demented orangutans. Nong went next and made it across without incident. Then it was Tim's turn. He displayed some crowd-pleasing acrobatics at first, but sadly lost his grip and plunged into the manky pond, suffering some mild rope-burn in the process.
And that brought our morning at Rai Pree Da to a happy (if slightly squelchy for Tim) end.

Written by Dan Billington


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